Plain Vanilla Thick Work Socks, Toe-Up

    Like the title says, I knit my socks toe-up, always. I learned to knit socks cuff-down, flap heel and all and I never really liked them. I mean, I could do it, but I really hated picking up gusset stitches (too much like fiddly work!). What's more I just never liked the worry of running out of yarn before I was done or (just as bad) having odd bits left over that could easily have gone into the leg! I tried various methods of toe-up and various heels too. What follows is my basic "method". My apologies to the designers, but most patterns I try, end up getting this heel and are knit this way (except maybe Janel Laidman's Rivendell socks but they're on my "To Do" list and may be there for a while... but I digress!). Most of this comes from Crazy Toes 'N Heels by Queen Kahuna although I have tweaked things to suit myself, as we all should!

Plain Vanilla Work Socks for about a men's size 9/10 foot

Yarn: Emu superwash DK 50 gm (119 yds) - 3 balls per sock,
          Not per pair, (6 balls per pair) Yarn is held triple strand
         Fingering or Lace weight linen to reinforce the heel
Needles: 4.5mm DPNs - I use 5" carbonized bamboo
               4.5mm 8" circular for heel
               Stitch holder for inactive stitches while turning heel
Gauge: 4 stitches per inch in stockingette
     
Cast On: Using your yarn triple strand, with a Long Tail cast on, with about a 20" tail (yes, you'll need it), cast 12 stitches alternately on to 2 DPNs (total of 6 stitches per needle). This is fairly easy to do, simply cast on one stitch on one needle, then one on the other and so on. Try to keep things fairly tight as this is your toe and you don't want any holes, right?
             

             

When you're done it should look like this:

             
Don't worry - it gets more fiddly! Now take a third DPN and knit the first 3 stitches. WAIT! Hold your tail AND your working yarn together to do this (yes, 6 strand) as it will instantly double your stitches on your next round. This method means there is only a very small starting area which means increased comfort for the toes - really! And NO ridge! You can knit these stitches more loosely than you cast on so don't make concrete here, OK?
          
So your stitch count is 3 -3 - 6, right? Now drop the tail (back to triple strand) and knit the next round, splitting each thick 6-strand stitch into two 3-strand stitches. Your stitch count should now be 6 - 6 - 12. Really easy increases! On this round I like to lay the tail over my working yarn on each stitch. This knits it in nice and tidy so you don't have to weave it in at the end. I do this on most of my knitting, not just socks, so I (almost) never have ends to weave in after.
      
Just lay it over the working yarn and knit like you normally would. (I slide it right to the bottom next to the stitch). I do this on each stitch this round then cut off the tail. It makes this the slowest and most fiddly round of the whole sock but it makes a tidy start and then you never have to look at the tail again!
Knit 6 more rounds just the way things are
(no increases or anything) and watch your tight little pancake turn into a cup!
Round 7: [Knit 1, make 1**, knit 8 (to the 2nd last stitch on your 2nd needle) make 1, knit 1] repeat for the 3rd needle
** Use your preferred "make 1". I knit in the front & back of the stitch.
Knit 2 rounds then repeat Round 7
Knit 2 rounds then repeat Round 7
Your stitch count should be 9 - 9 - 18 (36 stitches)
        
If you don't like a wedge-shaped "V" toe and want a more "U" shape, simply do the 3 increase rounds without the two plain rounds in between. It's a very flexible method!
Now it's just plain knitting in the round until you're 1/2" (or 2 rounds) away from starting your heel. For me, that's at 6 3/4".
Increase 4 stitches evenly during the round (total of 40 stitches), knit your last 2 rounds, then divide for your heel.
I make a no-wrap heel and I make a deep instep. I tie on my linen here. Using the 8" circular needle I start with the last 4 stitches on my 3rd needle, knit across my #1 & #2 DPNs and knit 4 stitches from DPN #3. The remaining stitches go on a stitch holder (or another 8" circ) so they're out of the way. For my turned heel I use metal rings threaded on cotton yarn to mark the turns. It means I never miss any stitches and my heels come out perfectly every time. I make 9 turns with 8 unturned stitches in the middle for my heel. When I'm done my heel I tie off the linen and lay the end across my stitches to knit it in, just like the cast on tail. Switch back to DPNs, dividing the stitches evenly.
          
When the sock leg is about 8" or so I make my ribbed cuff. This is my "best" ribbing because it has a bit of a twist and stays fairly springy like ribbing should be.
3x2 Ribbing: [Knit 1 through the back, Knit 1, Knit 1 through the back, Purl 2] all the way around. Continue until you have about a 6+ foot tail of working yarn left.
Stretchy Cast Off: K2, then knit those 2 stitches together [Knit 1, then knit it together loosely with the stitch on your right hand needle] Continue in this manner, remembering to knit or purl the stitches as you find them. Continue until all the stitches have been cast off, tie off your last stitch and weave in your end (I like to weave mine vertically down the inside ribbing).
Repeat all for 2nd sock. (ya, I just had to write that! LOL!)

If you want to print out this tutorial just click on "Comments". The entire post will be displayed with a (very small) "Print" icon which will let you print just the post without all the other stuff. Have fun!


 

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  • 6/15/2009 10:39 PM Lyn wrote:
    Can hardly wait to knit these socks. I like the way you write.
    Reply to this
    1. 6/16/2009 10:18 AM Gloria Patre wrote:
      Gee thanks! I'm glad to share! Please note I lengthened the measurement of the cast on tail and the cast off tail. I think it's better to have it longer than needed, don't you? That way there's no "cutting it close" for anyone, especially if others knit more loosely than I do!

      Reply to this

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